Outer Banks (OBX)
The first few days of exploration
Leaving Virginia Beach we decided to take the long, slow way to the Outer Banks with a stop in Edenton, NC. This is true small-town South Carolina. It was Sunday and Mother’s Day so we expected things to be quiet. This town is on a waterfront (river) and the slower pace was evident from the moment we parked. As usual, Pete got lots of attention with several requests to pet him. History seeped everywhere and we enjoyed a nice lunch downtown. Our waitress was a charming 18 year-old who was majoring in medicine and business and already dreamed about creating a business.
We arrived in the Outer Banks from the south end (Nag’s Head) and was surprised at how commercialized it was. Our short-term rental is flanked by the bay on the west side and across a very busy road to the beach on the east side. I tried walking to the beach but with no crosswalk, decided to not risk it. Going to the beach will unfortunately require driving.
Day Two
We drove to Corolla and walked the historic Corolla village and along the bay of Corolla Park. We also visited the red-brick Currituck Beach Lighthouse. We stopped for coffee and a snack at The Kind Cup, a super cute coffee and art shop. The coffee and crumb cake were excellent. We then stopped at the southern beach but the winds today are 35 mph and too chilly for me. Pete completed his nose dive and sand roll - so all is right with the world.
Duck is another cluster of shops and homes. Homes and lots are larger. There is a bike path and I think that is the ideal way to visit the village. Duck and Corolla are only about 20 minutes apart so it made for an easy drive. They are quieter and less commercialized. Kill Hills Devil (where we are staying) is centrally located and makes getting to other areas pretty easy.
We then visited the Avalon pier and beach, but again it was too windy and sand was blowing everywhere. It was amazing how the long pier does not even move with all the wind and waves. I guess it has to be strong enough to withstand hurricanes. Huge sand dunes protect the homes and the homes are built on stilts - ready for storm surge.
Day Three
Today we drove the Cape Hatteras National Seashore/Outer Banks National Scenic Byway which includes many stops. Heading south from Kill Devil Hills we hit the Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge. This introduction set the stage for the rest of the day filled with the beauty of marshes, sounds and the ocean. Birds were plentiful and the sky was bright blue.
Next up was Rodanthe. We turned down a random street and drove to a neighborhood on the beach. The Rodanthe Pier was in the distance and the beach was littered with shells. The houses sat high on the stilts and were painted varied colors. We drove through Waves, Salvo, Avon, Buxton, Frisco and finally Hatteras Village (where the ferry pickup for Ocracoke Island is located). The towns were small and low key. We then stopped at the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, which happens to be the tallest lighthouse in the U.S. Unfortunately, it is being renovated and was completely covered by scaffolding.
Next up was lunch, which was challenging. Most places, if even open, closed at 2 p.m. and did not open again until dinner time. We were at the in-between time of 3 p.m. I am sure that in a few weeks, when Memorial Day weekend hits, everything will be bustling. We finally found a sweet spot on the bay which was a restaurant and a kite surfing site.
Once satiated, we moved on to Bodie Island Lighthouse. This lighthouse was stunning and the marshlands and boardwalks were rich with birds and silence. The views from the lighthouse from a distance were even more impressive than close up.
Finally, the very full day’s last stop was Jockey’s Ridge State Park which was an easy walk down a boardwalk to the dunes. At the end of the boardwalk, hang gliders filled the top of the dunes ready to play. Walking the dunes takes a lot of strength and energy but are unquestionably beautiful. These dunes are the tallest living sand dune system on the Atlantic coast.
This section of the Outer Banks is what I envisioned when I considered visiting the area. I love the pristine nature, beaches and scenery. The area felt more local and untouched and just calmer, in general. It is amazing to me that all this beauty is completely free and very well-maintained.
Gorgeous!